At night and at 30 fathoms, light and color are absent from the jigs and I believe color doesn’t matter, but other really good anglers and friends vehemently disagree You can lose jigs to chew-offs, saw-offs, sharks, sea lions and tangles, so be sure to have several of each weight. And, I carry all weights from 80 grams to 500 grams to optimize the conditions I’m fishing. I’ve been very successful with the Nomad Buffalo and Streaker jigs, their names for their Flat-Fall and knife-style jigs. Ask your crew member to help pick the best jig from your box. So have a variety of jigs of different weights and sizes so you can deploy the best one in the conditions you are fishing. If there is any wind or current, you’ll need a heavier jig to get you down to the sonar marks quickly and minimize scope. The tuna may be preying on small forage fish and show no interest in a giant jig, or vice versa. It’s much trickier with wind and current and scope. The perfect scenario is no wind and little current and there is no or little scope in your line so when you reach your 300-foot mark you know you are at 300 feet. Most guys mark their line with a sharpie, but I use rubber bands so I can feel them going through my fingers and guides. If the captain is metering fish at 30 fathoms, or 180 feet, I’ll drop to my 200-foot mark and wind up 20 cranks and drop again. I mark my line at 100-foot intervals to 400 feet. Fluttering your jig at 500 feet is useless if the fish are suspended at 240 feet. The guys who didn’t get bit and kept dropping were quickly well below the fish. Three guys got bit when their jigs were fluttering in front of the fish at 40 fathoms.
The captain said he was metering fish at 40 fathoms, 240 feet. Some guys are still dropping and don’t get bit. He says they are big ones, “Use your heavy gear.” Everybody drops down. He comes over the loud speaker and advises he’s metering fish at 40 fathoms. The captain slows the engines and starts a slow circle.
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